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The Pineapple Chopper

This knife was a bit of an experiment; a creative little departure between orders and a bit of an experiment in several regards. It was the first time I’d forged a blade out of 90MnCrV8, a deep-hardening tool steel similar to O2 but without nickel. It was also the first time I’d used Katalox as a handle material, and the first time I’d done a textured and etched carbon steel plate guard like this. I definitely learned a few things during the process of making this knife, but in the end I also enjoyed the results. It’s a lot of fun to cut with!

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The blade is fairly slim at just under 5mm at the ricasso, which makes it a light, quick, and smooth cutter, but at over 25cm (10 inches) from tip to guard, it also boasts also fairly good reach. It’s great for clearing brush or slashing your way through thick vegetation in your favorite forest.

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As mentioned previously, the guard is textured and etched carbon steel, set off by stainless and carbon steel spacers. The spine and ricasso of the blade also retain a rough as-forged finish, providing a nice contrast against the 600-grit satin finished blade.

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The katalox handle shows rich, dark tones and a lovely, subtle figure in the grain. With a slight drop at the heel it indexes nicely in the hand and offers a sure and comfortable grip while cutting and chopping.

Overall length is just under 40cm, or about 15 1/2 inches. Currently available.

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Full-tang Damascus and Ironwood Hunter

Here’s a full-tang hunter I recently finished. The design is similar to the carbon steel and stag piece I posted earlier, but slightly larger and with entirely different materials. The general concept, however, remains the same, and that is: a solid, durable, and extremely effective cutting instrument in a compact and easy to carry package.

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The blade is 1084 / 15n20 damascus, the handle is Arizona desert ironwood burl, and the pins and lanyard tube are stainless steel. I find that the warm reddish tones of the wood contrast nicely against the silver and grey of the steel, as do the patterns and textures of both. But first and foremost, this is a knife, and it’s made to cut.

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I left the full tapered tang a bit proud of the handle scales to both highlight the damascus pattern and improve tactile response. Though this little detail requires a lot more close finish work to do properly, I feel that it looks terrific and feels good in the hand.

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I made a nice little sheath for it but forgot to take a photo before delivering the knife to its new owner – an old friend and colleague who wanted one of my knives to give to her husband on his birthday next week. She seemed genuinely thrilled with it, and I hope he is too.

 

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Little full-tang hunter

Here’s a little full-tang hunter I just finished up. It’s a prototype of sorts, in that I may make it a regular model.

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The knife is a compact design measuring only 6 1/2″ in overall length. Meant for light carry and ease of use in the field, the sheathed knife will fit comfortably on a belt or even in a pocket.  The stag handle scales and finger notch provide a sure grip, even when wet or bloody (as often happens when hunting knives are put to proper use), while the stainless lanyard tube allows for the attachment of a, um, well a lanyard.

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The C75 blade is fully hardened and hand-rubbed to a 400-grit satin finish.

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The full tapered tang sits slightly proud of the handle scales and retains a rough-filed finish which I cold-blued for stain resistance. I find that the contrast in color and texture also add some visual appeal, but the aesthetics are secondary to performance considerations. And this knife is designed to perform.

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For skinning and dressing game, fish and fowl, a simple, compact carbon-steel knife like this will be hard to beat.

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If you have interest in a knife like this contact me directly and we can discuss steel and handle material options or any variations you might like to see. Also, if you’re on instagram please don’t forget to check out my page @wulfdmaker

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Damascus Bird & Trout

This fowl and salmonid meat processing apparatus, otherwise known as a bird & trout knife, is small, thin, light and sharp. Very sharp.

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The deeply etched and blued damascus blade is about 10cm from tip tp guard and roughly 3.5mm thick. Overall length is just over 20cm.

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The guard is black G10, which is much lighter and warmer to the touch than steel, but still very strong and stable.

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Just behind the guard is a stainless steel spacer. A stainless steel pin also helps to secure the canarywood handle.

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This piece of  canarywood has nice warm tones and some interesting grain patterns. It’s been polished to 1200 grit and finished with boiled linseed oil.

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I also made a simple black leather sheath, which holds the knife securely and sits comfortably on a belt.

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A Damascus Chef Knife

For most of us, the knife we use more than any other is the kitchen knife. Therefore a proper chef knife is something I absolutely must have in my repertoire. I’ve already made a few trial blades and prototypes, and learn something new each time I make one and put it to use. Here is one such recent blade.

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The knife is just over 290mm long overall with a 180mm cutting edge. The blade is about 35mm tall at the heel and just under 3mm thick at the spine. In inches that’s about 7″ long by 1 3/8″ wide and about 110 thousandths thick. The cutting edge features a fairly consistent curvature, enabling both slicing and rocker cuts on the cutting board (onions, garlic and herbs won’t stand a chance against this knife). The overall blade geometry also allows for efficient cutting with some degree of blade flex, but still enough firmness and support to enable deeper cuts through tougher food items like a large roast or a Thanksgiving turkey.

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I forged the pattern-welded blade out of a combination of 1.2842 and 75Ni8 steels. The billet has a thicker core of 1.2842 which is clad in about 40 layers on either side. I gave it a light etch and then cold-blued it to help protect it from additional surface oxidation in the kitchen. The patina will surely develop through use over time, but I’ll be watching to see how well the bluing holds up.

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The handle is made out of black G10, a woven fiberglass and epoxy material that does not absorb moisture or hold bacteria like some woods can. I made the handle using a mortise-tang construction method, bedded in epoxy and held together by three stainless pins.

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This knife will be put to work in my kitchen where I will study its performance characteristics and use what I learn to help refine subsequent design iterations. It’s already the finest piece of cutlery in my kitchen, but I always strive to make the next one even better.

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